Sun May 31 — Woke up at 6:00 AM and got underway at 6:45 AM. After picking our way back out across the reef, we headed for Georgetown, a 55 mile passage. We wanted to get in during the early afternoon to have good light conditions for coming through the reefs at the entrance to Elizabeth harbor. We motor sailed at 8 kts during the morning with our speed dropping off to around 6.5 kts in the afternoon. Got into the harbor with no problems and anchored off of the Chat ‘n Chill around 3:30 PM. After putting things away, we relaxed and had an early supper before going to bed. Travelwise, this has been an interesting month. With health issues and waiting for weather, we spent three weeks at Ocean World. Despite that, we traveled several hundred miles, coming from Ponce, Puerto Rico to Georgetown, Bahamas. Most of the distance was in the form of three long overnight passages.
Sat May 30 — The night was uneventful, but very dark. We saw a couple of boats off in the distance, and a pod of dolphin passed us in the afternoon, but that was all. We arrived at Rum Cay around noon, anchored and put things away. I dove the anchor and saw only sand and turtle grass (but no turtles). We spent a quiet day on the boat and went to bed early.
Fri May 29 — We tried to leave early, we finally got underway around 8:45 AM. When I spoke with marina staff the evening before, they told me that I didn’t have to do anything, they would be at the boat with our bill at 7:30 AM, toss our lines to us and lead us out through the reefs. I finally managed to find the staff around 8:30 AM, sitting and talking with one another. After I “reminded” them, they got busy and enabled us to leave. We had planned to go only as far as Mayaguana, but conditions were very pleasant on the ocean, so we decided to go on to Rum Cay, a 195 mile journey, not our originally planned 44 mile day.
Thurs May 28 — Listened to the local cruisers’ net in the morning. The weather forecast looks good for the next few days. We made arrangements to be picked up to go to a barbeque at another marina in the evening. The Turks & Caicos are going through an interesting time. It is a British colony and the British government is taking over the governance of the colony, effective either yesterday or today. Apparently, the local government was extremely corrupt and incompetent, misplacing a variety of things, including $300,000,000. We spent the day finishing boat chores and getting ready to leave in the morning.
Wed May 27 — It’s amazing how 13 or 14 hours of sleep refreshes you. After a little quiet time in the morning, we got busy, shopping for groceries, marine supplies and money (an ATM). Things are very expensive on this island, much more than when we were here two or three years ago. Cab fare for our shopping trip was $60.00 and two
small bags of groceries cost $182.00. Back on the boat, Lin cooked and prepared food. I repaired the broken single line reefing that had broke (new rope and re-attaching a block to the boom), changed oil and filter, starboard engine, filled our scuba tanks and cleaned up the ends of some of our lines with a hot knife. The dinghy had taken on a lot of water while we were in Ocean World and we hadn’t noticed. When we did, the gas tank was floating upside down. When I checked the fuel in the tank, it was over half water. I ran the remaining fuel through a Baja style filter and got the water and other gunk out. In the evening, we walked to nearby restaurant for pizza. While going to the restaurant, I tripped on a step and managed to take Lin with me as I fell to the ground. Fortunately, neither of us was seriously injured. The food was good and after getting back to the boat we played games and read for a while before going to bed.
Tues May 26 — The night was very dark with a lot of lightening off in the distance. The seas settled down nicely and we had an uneventful passage, talking with Psyche and Arto periodically during the night. After crossing the south end of the Caicos bank and going north, past West Caicos Island, we looped around the north end of Providenciales and going east along the north coast of Provo, we arrived off the entrance to the marina around 10:30 AM. It was rather disconcerting a sailboat on its side on the reef to one side of the entrance. Reportedly, it want aground two days ago while leaving Turtle Cove and was eventually abandoned. The owner missed the last channel marker on the way out and hit the reef. We used the free pilot boat provided by the marina to find our way in (and will use it again going out. At the marina, we cleared in with Customs and fueled up before going to our slip. We had an interesting time backing into our stern tie slip. By the time the boat was secured for shore, we were both exhausted and decided to relax for the rest of the day. By 5:00 PM, I was in bed asleep, Lin followed a short time later. I awoke later to a big lightning storm and put out a device that attaches to the mast and hangs a heavy wire in the water that is supposed to protect us from lightening.
Mon May 25 — We were up before 6:00 AM and headed out of the marina by 7:15 AM. The seas were a bit high initially, but gradually settled down. Winds were pretty light and variable for most of the day. We were a bit surprised with all of the junk floating miles off of the coasts of the Dominican Republic and Haiti. All and all, it was a pretty unexciting day, and on a passage, unexciting is good..
Sun May 24 — In the morning I collected weather information and Lin went to the supermarket with Debby from Psyche. Based on the information I obtained, we’ve decided to leave in the morning around 7:00 AM. The rest of the day was spent cleaning the boat, cleaning growth off the props and, checking out with the marina and Customs and Immigration and generally getting the boat ready to leave.
Sat May 23 — Worked around the boat in the morning. In the afternoon we met some other cruisers and played dominoes by the pool. Afterward, we swam for a while before going back to the boat. During the day, we used Skype to call our sons and Lin’s brother and cousin. It was nice speaking with them
Fri May 22 — Up in time to gather weather information in the morning. A large catamaran docked near us in the morning. Reportedly, he came into the marina and tied up on the fuel dock around 11:30 PM because conditions out in the ocean were extremely rough. After taking care of a few boat chores, we went for a swim (at least I did) and then played sequence with two other couples. In the evening, we walked to a local restaurant and had drinks with another couple. Because of the flies, we decided to not eat there, but rather took some food back too the boat. Dinner was pretty good and afterwards we watched TV for a while before going to bed.
Thurs May 21 — Up before dawn and to the marina office by 6:30 AM, where we met Eric and Debbie and were picked up by a tour bus to go to Santa Domingo for the day. The trip was very long, with a brief stop it took us about four hours to get to Santa Domingo. The countryside is beautiful, very lush and fertile, and the mountains majestic. Along the way, we stopped at a cavern with three lakes inside (O.K., but not what we came to see). Santa Domingo is the oldest, continuously occupied European city in the new world and the largest city in the Dominican Republic (population 4,000,000). We visited the Christopher Columbus light house, a huge structure, where Columbus’s remains are said to be buried. It was a UNESCO project costing $35,000,000. Reportedly, when it is lit, a large portion of the city around it loses power. Next, we visited the fortified palace where Diego Columbus (Christopher’s son) lived, a building where a number of DR heroes are buried and the National Cathedral. These were all interesting, particularly the Diego Columbus home. After lunch, we went to an overpriced souvenir shop. After that, it was back on the bus for the four hour ride back to Puerto Plata. At every traffic light in the big cities there were many venders selling a wide variety of things (some of which we couldn’t identify) to motorists waiting at the light. Back on the boat, we read for a while before going to bed.
Wed May 20 — In the morning, I spoke with Chris Parker. I was told that wind and seas are generally mild, but that there are a large number of along the north DR coast and more severe squalls in the Turks and Caicos. The information provided was a bit vague and inconsistent, but we were encouraged to hold off leaving until situation becomes clearer, probably by the weekend. We spent the morning working around the boat. In the afternoon, we went up to the pool area where I went into the water for a while (very chilly) and then we played Sequence with two other couples.
Tues May 19 — I got up early to listen to weather forecasts on the SSB, but reception was very poor and I wouldn’t make out enough of the words to get any worthwhile information. I received an email from Chris Parker telling me that starting on Thursday we should have good conditions for our passage. Late in the morning, we got a taxi to take us to a large store that is a cross between a supermarket and a K-Mart to do some grocery shopping. We got most of what we were looking for and headed back to the boat. Marina staff, as usual, were quite willing to take us and our purchases back to the boat via golf cart. After putting things away and taking care of a couple of minor chores, we relaxed on the boat.
Mon May 18 — We both slept late this morning and spent a quiet day on the boat. Lin heard from someone who spoke with Chris Parker of the Caribbean Weather Center this morning. She was told that there are expected to be significant storms and squalls near the Turks and Caicos until Thursday. We’ll wait and see what develops and possible delay our departure until Thursday. In the afternoon, it clouded over and rained for several hours. Imbedded in the storm was a squall with lightning and thunder and winds up to 39 kts. It drizzled through most of the evening and we had a typical evening of reading and TV.
Sun May 17 — We woke to an overcast day with very light winds. After spending the morning on the boat reading, Lin joined some other women at the Octopus bar & grill for some games. The architecture of the marina complex is very ornate. The Octopus bar & grill is next to the pool, and the roof over the bar looks like a spread out octopus, the pool is free form and runs through a large patio. I and my cold symptoms stayed on the boat and read and rested. In the evening, we had some roast beef and macaroni and cheese for dinner and watched TV for a while before going to bed.
Sat May 16 — I tried to collect weather information on the SSB this morning with no success. After considering the weather information we do have and my illness, we’ve decided to postpone departure from the DR until sometime next week. There is supposed to be a front with squalls coming through on Tuesday, followed by light winds and calm seas on Wednesday. Lin did laundry and cooking in the afternoon while I rested. In the evening, I crashed quite early and Lin stayed up and watched TV.
Fri May 15 — We had a quiet night and woke to an overcast day. I think that some of the germs that we were exposed to in the hospital got to me. I am running a low grade fever and have little energy. We decided to see how I’m feeling tomorrow and early Sunday morning before making any changes in our plan to leave Sunday. We spent a quiet evening on the boat watching TV and went to bed early.
Thurs, May 14 — At 10:00 AM Eric and Debby stopped by the boat and we all walked to the Adventure park. Lin, Eric and Debby bought admissions that included the Sea Lion Encounter and the Dolphin Swim. I bought a general admission ticket and came along as photographer. Lin was assigned different times for events than Eric and Debby. After the Sea Lion Show, she joined a group for a Sea Lion Encounter. Afterward, we went walking around the park and had a light lunch (truly bad food). In the afternoon, Lin put on a life vest and went swimming with the dolphins. They are truly amazing animals. I don’t know. In the morning, I caught her being kissed by a strange sea lion, in the afternoon it was the same thing with a dolphin. I’ve always know that she was an animal lover, but this was a bit much. When we got back to the marina, I went to the marina office and spoke with the staff about getting some coke (there was none when we went to the supermarket. Roberto, the concierge, found a man who went to another supermarket on his motor cycle and purchased some for us. Roberto then delivered it to the boat. In the evening we had a quiet dinner on the boat and crashed.
Wed May 13 — It rained a great deal during the night and into the morning. Lin spent a quiet day on the boat. I did a few minor repairs, including repairing the deck washdown pump. In the evening we went to Psyche and enjoyed drinks, snacks and socializing with Eric and Debby. Back on the boat, we read and watched TV before going to bed.
Tues May 12 — We got up early headed to the marina office to meet a taxi driver. On our way, we met Eric and Debbie from Psyche who had just arrived. We have met them several times down island. After chatting for a bit and arranging to get to together in the evening for drinks. Our driver picked us up at 8:30 AM and took us back to the hospital. After a wait while the ex-ray was processed, we took the ex-ray upstairs to the doctor who looked at it and prescribed more medication for Lin. On the way back to the boat, the driver stopped at an open air market so that we could buy some more produce. Back on the boat, I took care of some minor chores and Lin went to bed. In the evening, Eric and Debbie came to the boat and we enjoyed socializing for a couple of hours. After they left, we had dinner and I read while Lin watched a basketball game on TV.
Mon May 11 — During the night it rained quite a bit, most of the time lightly, but one squall did come through that would have had us taking down our sails if we had been at sea. After a quiet morning, we went grocery shopping. The grocery store provided transportation to the store and back. The store bills itself as a supermarket, but it really wasn’t very super. Our bill came to $4,600, making it appear to have been a very expensive trip, however, that is only about $120 US so I think that we can live with it. Back at the marina, staff took us and our purchases back to Alize in a golf cart. After taking care of a few things on the boat, we went to the marina office where a taxi driver picked us up and took us to the hospital so that Lin could see the doctor again. After examining her again, the doctor ordered an ex-ray, which we were told would be ready the next morning. Back on the boat, we had a quiet evening.
Sun May 10 — It rained most of the night, at times hard with strong winds. These conditions are comfortable when tied to a dock, often very uncomfortable when out at sea. Lin is still not feeling her best, and spent a quiet day aboard the boat. I ran a couple of errands and some minor boat chores. In the evening, we went to the marina restaurant for dinner to celebrate Mother’s Day.
Sat May 9 — We had another quiet night and awoke to a short period of rain. It is interesting to observe how the large islands such as Puerto Rico and Hispanola effect the weather. At night and into mid morning there is typically almost no wind, then from late morning through the afternoon, it is extremely windy. The large islands also collect a lot of moisture from the ocean that goes out to sea in the form of rain and squalls in the evening. Lin is feeling better, but still not 100%. We spent a quiet day aboard, me doing more boat chores, Lin doing a little baking. In the afternoon, Roberto, an employee of the marina, stopped by to ask how Lin is doing. The staff here are great, and he is one of the best, pleasant, friendly, and always to be helpful. Another typical evening, games, leftovers, TV, and reading before going to bed.
Fri May 8 — Enjoyed a good night’s sleep and woke to a calm, sunny morning. Lin is still not feeling well, so we decided to spend a quiet day on the boat. I re-packed our spinnaker and walked around the area, and did some route planning, laying out routes and potential stops on our electronic charts. Our current location provides an excellent reminder that one can’t rely completely on electronic charts. Despite what the chart shows, we are not on dry land. Our slip in the marina is very near the slip we had when here two years ago, right next to the area where the sea lion show is held. The show hasn’t changed, and we hear “Who let the dogs out” and some of the music from the Pink Panther” repeatedly during the day. It gets a little old after a while. We had a typical evening aboard, playing games and watching TV before going to bed.
Thurs May 7 — We slept late this morning and woke to a very windy day. We spent a quiet day on the boat. Lin cooked some food while I did boat chores (finishing canvas repairs, running the watermaker, checking fluids in the engines, collecting weather information and updating our web site). In the evening, we enjoyed an excellent dinner, played backgammon, watched TV and read.
Wed May 6 — Up in time to listen to the morning’s weather forecasts, but SSB reception was very poor. I received a reply to an email that I sent to Chris Parker of the Caribbean Weather Center. He suggested that Friday and Saturday should be good days for our passage to the Turks & Caicos. Another cruiser on the dock told me that he had gotten the same recommendation from another source. Lin has been having severe sinus problems, despite a couple of courses of antibiotics. We went to a private clinic at a local hospital (recommend by marina staff). An ENT specialist there put Lin on an entirely different type of treatment and we will be here for another week while we find out how this different treatment works. Hopefully, this will solve something that has been a longstanding problem. The roads here are interesting. Drivers do pretty much whatever they can get away with. Most of the taxis are motorcycles whose drivers were yellow vests with a special logo and their cab number. If the streets are jammed, they and their passengers go up on the sidewalk. The hospital was very crowded and noisy with ER patients walking around holding up their IV bottles and staff very actively socializing as they work. We used to go to the hospital and back. The driver was very helpful in getting us to the right place and waited for us for over two hours. Total cost including tip, $40.00 US. Back at the marina, the staff was very helpful in translating an instruction sheet that Lin had received and trying to explain what some of the fruits are that are allowed in Lin’s diet.
Tues May 5 — After a long and restful night’s sleep, we both awoke refreshed. We spent a quiet day on the boat, though I did do a little shopping and stitched some torn seams in our canvas. I’m also trying to collect weather information and finding it frustrating when the “experts” don’t agree with one another, often in significant ways.
Mon May 4 — We had a very calm night, motor sailing most of the time because there was almost no wind. We arrived at Ocean World at around 7:30 AM, tied up on the fuel dock and started the clearing in process at the fuel dock. We were the first boat to arrive, but during the morning, a half dozen boats arrived, primarily from Puerto Rico. After fueling up, we went to our slip and docked Alize. After that, we checked in with the marina and then saw several more officials from different government agencies. The clearing here has become much more complex and expensive since our last visit here. While I was doing this, Lin cleaned the boat and covered the sails. After I got back, she did a couple of loads of laundry. In the evening, we played a few games, but gradually faded and went to bed early.
Sun May 3 — Wind and seas were comfortable as we motor sailed along the DR coast. By the evening, winds were quite calm, typically between 7 to 15 kts. It was rather boring, but I’ll take boring over rough weather. Lin, as usual, had great food prepared for our trip.
Sat May 2 — We got an unhurried start to the day, raising our anchor and leaving the harbor around 10:00 AM. Conditions were very comfortable for the first few miles. However, when we were well out in the Mona Passage (between Puerto Rico and the Dominican Republic). Things got pretty lumpy with winds up to 29 kts and 7 to 9 ft waves. Out in really deep water things calmed down a bit and were fairly comfortable once we got to the northern coast of the DR.
Fri May 1 — We woke up at 6:15 AM after a quiet, restful night. This is a beautiful anchorage and we would like to stay here longer, but we need to be moving on. We raised the mainsail and left the anchorage at 7:15 AM. The seas were almost flat (a very low swell was coming in from the southeast) and there was almost no wind, often less than 5 kts. We saw a couple of turtles and Lin caught a three ft. barracuda. We didn’t realize what type of fish it was until we got it aboard. They’re not good eating fish, but Lin plans to freeze some strips of meat to serve as bait. We motored along the southern coast of Costa Rico, rounding Cabo Rojo (Red Cape) around 11:00 AM. As worked our way up to Bouqueron, the wind picked up to about 20 kts and the seas became short and choppy. In Bahia de Bouqueron we anchored near Satori and covered the sails. After collecting additional weather information and talking with some other cruisers, we decided to leave in the morning for the Dominican Republic.